Search Results for 'R72'

I am Nguyen Quyet Toan, I live in Vietnam
after I update the firmware.
I have an Iliver mixer that is reporting The firmware versions detected are not compatible. I opened the firmware versions and saw version touchscreen v1.83. and vesions iliveR72 V1.94 .
Currently the device is still working and connected to the mixrack, but the screen does not display even when booted and can still be touched. please help me . because this is the main asset for me to work with. thank you

Hey all, I came to this forum looking for info about my failing or failed iLives. I put in a lot of time. I just got some excellent support from A&H Uk and especially A&H support here in the US. I have learned so much. It seems like there is a lot of folks with questions about these SBC screen computers that allow us to interface with the onboard screen and control various other aspects. As best I can tell, there’s some info that is confusing because of all the different types of SBCs used during the production years.

From what I get, here is what you need to know about fixing your dead iLives (if the board works but the screen doesn’t, and you’ve determined that it is the SBC that has died or lost it’s mind due to the battery dropping so low). If after battery is/was replaced, and correct BIOS settings have been applied (possibly by an outboard VGA screen and USB keyboard, and entering password which is “digital”), if your iLive still doesn’t have a screen your SBC may be dead – that’s up to you to determine.

If you need a new one, A&H is STILL offering a replacement SBC OR SBC kit. You will need to determine what SBC OR SBC kit you need by the following info. Note that there is only ONE replacement part(s) so these parts are the replacement for any of the various SBCs used, and all based on that sole Advantech 2GB model.

There were 4 SBC’s used in the iLive range.
>The 1GB flash memory Axiomtek was used in the first series of modular iLives (S series)
>The 1.5GB flash memory was used on the Axiomtek SBC and this was the first T series run. THIS is the SBC that has the soldered in battery :(. THIS SBC and console has the additional small 1″ by 3″ or so circuit board on each side of the Screen (the old model).
>The 2Gb flash memory Fujitsu SBC was next and never in the S series consoles nor R72. This does have the replaceable battery
>The last production run (if I understand that right) is the Advantech 2GB flash memory SBC, and is the one STILL available.

If you need a new SBC, you need to know which one you need because you may need the additional wiring kit that goes with that particular console, and comes with those particular SBCs.

If you have an iLive that has the newest 2GB Advantech SBC in it, then you need just a direct swap unit. This part does NOT have any additional wiring, it’s a direct swap only.

That part is the AH-004-096X Advantech 2GB ONLY.

To determine what SBC kit you need for the 1.5GB Axiomtek units or 2GB Fujitsu units here’s how you know:
With the console back panel off, if you have an older iLive with the small PCBs on each side of the screen, then that is an older LCD screen and the replacement SBC KIT is:

AH-004-477JIT (Advantech 2Gb SBC includes wiring kit or adapters).

If you don’t have the PCBs beside each side of the screen then you have a newer LED screen. That part number is:

AH-004-478JIT (Advantech 2GB SBC includes wiring kit or adapters).

Of course one should be diligent and cross check with the dealer, but I’m pretty sure this is accurate. You can also get this from Full Compass but make sure you give them the correct part number or you might get the swapout 096 model only with no wiring.

The support I received from A&H this week cements that my next board will be a D-Live. I haven’t used one but my partner has, and he said it was awesome and I’ve only heard great things about it.
Yours Truly – Deafsoundguy

[DSGParticipant]

Hey guys, I’ve been trying to get on the A&H forum for a long time, finally found out that it didn’t like the confirmation email sent back from an iPad, was finally successful sending from a Windows machine.

Anyway, I currently have 3 iLive T112’s, a T80, 2 R72’s, as well 3 GLD consoles as far as A&H stuff. I had a Surface give me issues with the screen about a year ago and I put it aside. I had another surface come back from an install and IO sat it aside and it was working perfect when I put it aside in my cold, cold shop. So I was using the third as my go-to surface with whatever IDR brain was getting used for the gig. At set-up the screen died. That set me off on the journey I’ve been on for the last week, learning about the issues and builds of the iLives. Before I started, if someone said BIOS I’d go hide under a desk. But I’m a fast learner.

So as others have mentioned, there was 3 different types of SBC screen computers used in these consoles. Because I see an adapter plate used to support the Fujitsu model, then I believe the Fujitsu’s were the last ones used. This is further strengthened due to an iLive service sheet that details the Flash memory card needs to be a 1G or 1.5G depending on SBC. The sheet does not detail the Fujitsu model with the blue 2Gb memory (mounted on top) so I would assume it came last.

I will go out on a limb here and say the first was the Advantech, then the Axiomtek, then the Fujitsu. Each has their own Flash memory card. I don’t know for sure, but I will also assume then, that one must get the right card for the right SBC.

What I have learned is:
1: that you can’t run the same BIOS settings for different SBC’s. Each one is different and requires different values entered into their own perspective brains.

2: Each one of these SBC’s have their own thresholds on what the CMOS battery will do when it gets low, or worse, completely bites the dust with a super low battery voltage.

3: If you’re lucky, when the battery gets just to a point where the screen doesn’t work, you might get LUCKY and it might come back without entering in the correct BIOS settings depending on the type of SBC.

4: At some point the battery threshold will destroy the operating system of the SBC, and we might need a new flash memory or, a new operating system BIOS downloaded from the SBC manufacturer.

5: From my experience, the Fujitsu SBC’s go nuts first with low battery voltage.

6: Using your Surface helps keep the battery charge up. Put your surface on a shelf and don’t use it and you will get a dead battery way faster. Moral of the story is use your gear and watch the drop dead date of your SBC battery because without use it’s lucky to see the 5 years. Use it all the time and it might last over 10 years. ALL of my iLive issues were because I’m a numbnutz and didn’t think about.

7: I “think” that if you have a recently used Surface and your battery is not quite dead yet, that quickly replacing is okay, you won’t lose your BIOS settings. If your battery is near death and you remove that battery, then you stand a chance of wiping out the memory. What I did was create a 2032 battery holder. I screwed in 8-32 screws into each side to hold it, and give me an output for each side +/-. Then I used alligator clips to let me attach to the internal battery to get “jump start” or like a car, charge the old battery, OR, keep a charge on the SBC while I changed out the old one.

8: The Fujitsu uses a replaceable battery holder so that’s cool. I used my alligator clip fresh battery holder attached to the back of the eject tab while I changed out the battery.

9: The Axiomtek unit has a soldered in STOOPID battery. So that sucks. I guess one could try something like soldering in a new one but it looks like it’s daunting even for an expert solder guy, as well, you’d not have voltage for awhile while you did that. The circuit board tabs are directly attached (soldered or welded0 to the top of the battery. In this case, I am going to just make an external battery holder that can permanently “piggyback” a new battery to the inside of the surface.

10: The interesting thing about the Axiomtek SBC is it seems from my experience is that it can suffer from a very low battery voltage and still be resurrected like Frankenstein. My screen was dead, but using the outboard VGA and external monitor I borrowed from my SC48, I was able to get a monitor screen, or at least after awhile. So while the console had no onboard screen, I attached my outboard 2032 battery holder to give it a “jumpstart”. By doing this, while it was booting up the onboard screen came back slowly out of the depths of hell. As time passed the screen got brighter. So that battery at least on the Axiomtek SBC heavily relies on battery voltage I would guess. At worst case (other than dead), I think you could get into the BIOS and get a working screen (via entering commands from your USB keyboard and looking at the VGA monitor).

11: Like I said about BIOS commands is that each SBC has different settings. So the link to the Axiomtek SBC BIOS settings (provided on this thread) are NOT going to work if you enter them onto a different brand.

12: With my dead as Elvis Fujitsu SBC’s, I tried and went to Fujitsu’s website and download their BIOS settings into a USB flashdrive. They have a download for that (directly for USB sticks) as well as a bunch of other files for that D2963-S11 model. (Note here is that the download comes up as a D2963-S1 not S11. That number did not match anything. I tried to boot from the USB (EXE new BIOS) by plugging it into the SBC directly (and unplugging everything else except for power). It did something and there was a point that I WAS able to finally get into the BIOS but then I entered a few things (like disable LAN) and never could get it back. Long story short, yes I cleared the CMOS memory, found the recovery jumper, etc etc but was not successful on resurrecting the Fujitsu SBCs 🙁 .

13: OH YEAH….if you are lucky enough to get to a BIOS screen, the password I found works on all the A&H SBC’s I’ve tried including the GLDs is…….digital – all lowercase. You’re welcome. If your SBC has gotten to the point where it loses it’s mind, then it will forget it had a password.

At this point, I’ve requested SBC and flash memory availability and etc from my dealer but he has not gotten back to me. As well, I have reached out to Fujitsu for poops and giggles to see if they have any replacement usable SBCs. I am totally able to fabricate any mechanical plate, just like A&H did to fit the Fujitsu model on the standoffs that the earlier SBCs they used. So not holding my breath.

My gut feeling is that the flash memory is toast on the Fujitsu’s. I don’t know. So even if I was able to get working something or rather, that without a working flash memory then I’m S.O.L.

Interesting though that all my ilives regardless of screen issues still work, connect to the IDR’s and no errors, all channels come up like it wants to rock. You just can’t get a screen.

I will post if I get any new info. I HATE giving up. I love the iLives, would use it any day over all the other consoles I own, including the SC48’s, Midas any model, CL5, Digico, you name it.

Hey there,
I’m looking for a small footprint console for a fixed band setup. We mainly play at festivals and smaller clubs (30 gigs per year).
I did some great experience with SQ consoles which would fit to budget together with 2 DX168 expander. I’ve also noticed, that there are some old iLive IDR32 racks with R72 surface for sale, which would also fit to my requirements of form factor.

Is an iLive console still worth buying in 2022 and how can I compare it to the SQ series?

Best regards,
Philipp

[SW2407Participant]

I have an i-Live 112 surface and iDR10 Rack in flightcases being sold for Spares or Repair. Currently the surface requires a new touchscreen kit and I was just about to order one before the Covid pandemic hit. As I no longer have any need for the system I’m breaking the surface for spares and selling off the Mixrack.

Rack has 6 input modules and 2 output (48 to 16) and runs on Ethersound (as does the surface)
There is an ACE module in the Mixrack 2nd port to connect a monitor desk (Already sold my R72 just before Covid lockdown)

Anyone in need of any bits or modules I’m located in Central Scotland.

While I have previously replaced one of our iLive-R72 LCD modules, enough pixels failed on the other two that it was time to replace these as well. Reading the posts here (such as this and this) were very helpful and even though we had no problems with our CMOS battery, the unit is seven years old so I decided to replace this as well.

Here is what I learned for the LCD panel replacement:

1) I ordered two of item 004-056JIT, V2 LCD display. These cost about Cdn$230 each. These each have the LCD display with RGB backlight, VU meter LEDs, and red mute LED for each of the four channels per module.

2) A Philips screwdriver is needed to remove all the screws on the side panels and the four screws at the back and four screws on the bottom, so that the top panel can be lifted somewhat.

3) No cables need to be removed if you only lift the top cover enough to get at the modules. Remove the ribbon cable connector from the module and the three Torx screws to remove the module.

4) Use a soldering iron and solder to jumper either JS1 or JS3 on the new panel to match that of the removed panel.

5) Remove the protective plastic from the LCD display.

Here is what I learned for the CMOS battery replacement:

1) I bought a CR2032 battery and the holder for this battery.

2) The Linux PC motherboard is at the top-right, the top panel can be shifted to the left enough to remove the:
• Ethernet connector from the board.
• Two USB connectors from the back panel.
• One VGA connector from the back panel.
• LCD panel connector from the board.
• Ribbon cable from the back of the board.
• Four Torx screws securing the board.

3) My soldering iron would not melt the solder on the motherboard, likely because it is lead-free due to RoHS requirements, so I carefully pried off the welded tab from the top + connection of the CR2032 battery, and bend it enough times for the bottom – connection to break off. Then I bent the two legs of the + top tab enough to break them off as well.

4) Then I soldered a two-wire cable to these contacts with about 12″ of cable to the new CR2032 battery holder.

5) I reassembled everything inserted a CR2023 into the holder, and when the iLive-R72 starts the display is missing text lines and is repeated three times, while it is possible to read this, a VGA monitor can be plugged-in to the back panel. Plug-in a standard USB keyboard to either USB connector. The AwardBIOS boot stops with a prompt to either press F1 on the keyboard to continue or DEL to enter BIOS setup which must be done.

6) If the LCD is all white, then power off the iLive-R72, remove and reinsert the CR2032 battery to clear the CMOS, and power on again.

7) Use the four keyboard arrow keys to navigate the BIOS, use the + and – keys to change a highlighted parameter, press ESC to quit, and F10 to save and continue booting.

8) Finally we get to the part I most wanted to document, the two CMOS settings that must be changed are in the “AGP & P2P Bridge Control” menu:
• Select Display Device: [CRT+LCD]
• Panel Type: [800×600 18 bit]

Press F10 to save and exit, the iLive-R72 should boot normally. Reassemble everything, and hopefully your sound system will be good for many more years.

Hello, does anyone have or know where I Can get an IDR-16 to go with my ilive TR72 in the UK? Or is there any other type of mix rack that will work with an ilive?

Hi everyone
Got a dead SBC on my R72. It would not switch on no matter what. power LED is green (near the VGA port) and the fan is active. This is the Axiom 84700 model (two LAN ports, 1GB RAM) and reading the OEM manual I could not find how to make it work. I did try to reset the BIOS, check battery voltage (3V), connect an external monitor and even replace the RAM. No success – even no BIOS boot screen.

As it is, the SBC is connected to the surface with Ethernet and Serial connection. So I thought it should be simple to run on an external computer. I connected everything and voila – boot went well and I can get connected to the surface over IP. I cannot, though, get serial connection for the touch screen.

Anyone had any experience or luck with it? can it be that the touch screen requires the LVDS to be connected (currently not connected, maybe it gets its power through the LVDS screen? It would be strange though as the screen (AU Optroelectronics) does not come built-in with touch and the touch digitizer is an external board sitting under the softkeys.

Any help appreciated!

JN

I believe I have a failed SBC (touchscreen computer) in my T-112 surface. I have some questions about replacing it.

1) Based on the attached document I found in another thread, there appear to have been three different SBCs used in the T series. I believe I have the “Fujitsu SBC – 004-111 – AE8214” in my surface. Would I have to replace it with the same SBC, or would any of the three models work?

2) Does anyone know if the T-80 and T-112 used the same SBCs? I’m guessing the answer is yes since the attached document calls out different SBC models for the R72, but it would be great to have confirmation of this.

3) As far as I know these SBCs are no longer available from Allen & Heath. These SBC units look like off-the-shelf computers to me, but so far I haven’t found the right search terms to find anything like these outside of the Allen & Heath world. Does anyone know what the generic name for these computers are that I might be able to pull up in a Google search (type of computer or processor model or anything)? Or better yet, does anyone know where/how to find these computers outside of Allen & Heath?

By the way, the troubleshooting I’ve done that makes me think the SBC is bad:
* The CMOS battery has been replaced and is good
* There is 24V power to the SBC (actually 25.6V when not under load)
* When powered on the touchscreen is all white. I’ve tried attaching an external monitor to the VGA port and I get absolutely nothing on it.

I’m open to other troubleshooting steps, but I work with several iLive systems so sooner or later I’m going to need the above SBC info even if not for this surface.

Thanks.

Attachments:

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I have several ilives ….. 2xr72 and 2xidr32 racks! they don’t see much use anymore but still at 10 years old I’ve seen posts where the screen had issues related to the bios battery or similar, I want to put the boards out on a series of “zoom” style shows next week, how long should i expect them to function ok ? is it based on years “age” or running time average or other??……

thx

R

[adamrcdParticipant]

okay right now I’m using ACE CARD in port B socket 1 to Allen and heath ME- U digital card. I only use single cat 5/6 cable because for the name I use wireless network switch so I can access thru my phone or my MacBook whenever I want too..

1) cat 5/6= audio signal
2) cat 5/6= for name every channel on ME U and stereo link(correct me if I’m wrong)

ON MIXER

OUTPUTS—PORT B:ACE

PORT B:ACE
Channel 21-40

Select output source
start channel: 1
end channel: 40

what is the next step I should assign my outputs?

system running
A&H R72
A&H IDR 64
A&H ME U
A&H ME 1

[SteffenRParticipant]

Is there a minimum voltage for the C1500?

Mains Power 100-240V AC, 50-60Hz, 110W max

https://www.allen-heath.com/ahproducts/c1500/

I had the same issue years before with my iLive
and after some hours of search I noticed that my mains plug slips out just a little bit every time I touched the R72
but most of the time it was ok…

rearranged the cables and everything was good again

Hi I am currently running an iLive R72 with 2 iDr16 mix racks for my church. We have recently gotten into streaming to Facebook and Youtube. We are doing a recording then doing post-mix video edits to prepare for broadcast. My sound is inconsistent with how I’m routing the mix for the stream. I’m using an aux send to send a fee off of the surface using a 1/4′ to xlr that goes into the actual camera. How do I configure that aux output so that the effects (compressors) that I apply for house mix does not affect the mix for the stream? Also, what is the best way to apply effects to the instruments and vocals being used? Current config is drums, bass, keys, and 2 separate track machines being used by drummer and keyboard player. Also need to find the best solution for mixing vocals using effects that does not affect the house vocal mix, only the stream vocal mix. We are considering purchasing Dante card to route to a DAW but really don’t want t spend the extra money on another control surface if it can be helped by reconfiguring the current setup. Would be open to talking directly with someone for assistance.

[pblosser03Participant]

Prices reduced.
Idr-32 – $1,500
R-72 – $1,500
M-Dante Card – Sold!
+Shipping from Texas

See pictures here:
https://www.sweetwater.com/used/listings/18578-used-allen-heath-allen-heath-ilive-r72-and-idr32-digitial-mixer

Looking to sell my iLive iDR-32 mix rack and R72 surface.

Both are in great condition and really only saw occasional use. The R72 surface comes in a road case with casters. The Mix rack will ship in the original box. M-Dante Option card available as well.

Idr-32 – $2,000
R-72 – $3,000
M-Dante Card $1000
+Shipping from Texas

Let me know if you are interested and make an offer.