Ilive T series switches

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This topic contains 9 replies, has 6 voices, and was last updated by Profile photo of Lieven-Dewispelaere Lieven-Dewispelaere 10 years, 1 month ago.

Viewing 10 posts - 1 through 10 (of 10 total)
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  • #22875
    Profile photo of Lieven-Dewispelaere
    Lieven-Dewispelaere
    Participant

    Guys,

    I have a T112 who is about 2,5 years new and is developing problems with some switches.
    the +48 switch, one layer switch and one soft-key.
    Have you guys had a similar problem and how did you solved this.
    especially the phantom and soft-key are not workable anymore. I use this soft-key for dly tapping so you get the point.
    i opened up the side and could see that the switches are fully closed and SMD soldered, so not really possible to change them myself i guess or am i wrong here?
    I am not afraid to crack it open and do it myself if it is possible . ( i have a degree in electronics )

    All the other switches are working perfect.

    Regards
    Lieven

    T112/IDR48/R72/IDR16/xDR16/IPad1
    Save a tree, eat a beaver

    #28930
    Profile photo of Stix
    Stix
    Participant

    I havent had a problem with the iLive switch’s yet – but what I can say is that I have witnessed many so called professional engineers who stab at mixer switch’s like it’s their mission to hit it as hard as they possible can. This is not just applicable to the iLive but on any mixer – if you want your switch’s to last – treat em gently! Lieven – I’m not accusing you of being a hard hitter! Just watch out for engineers that do and give them a good bolicking or kick them off altogether. It’s not them that have to deal with the eventual problems – it will be you right in the middle of an important gig when a crucial switch decides its had enough of the abuse! Thats my rant!

    Cheers

    Richard Howey
    Audio Dynamite Ltd
    IDR48/IDR16/T112/R72/Mixpad,Tweak,
    Dual M-Dante/DVS, 17″MBP/Logic 9/Custom Mackie Control

    #28931
    Profile photo of ceejay
    ceejay
    Participant

    I had a surface initially, with a couple buttons that would not release or pop back up. Was under warranty, swapped out the surface.

    CRJ
    Oswego, IL

    T112 & iDR48
    Sony F 1.73GHZ I7 8 Core
    Win 7 Pro 500GB HD 8G RAM
    TP-Link WR1043ND & Airport Express

    #28934
    Profile photo of Lieven-Dewispelaere
    Lieven-Dewispelaere
    Participant

    I don’t think that mine is still under warranty.
    I mostly use the surface myself ( and not that often, only weekends ) and i am always present when a BE use it. So no crossrent.
    No hard hitters here. The phantom switch isn’t used that intensively. you would rather think it starts happening with the layer switches.
    I will contact A&H to see what could be the solution.
    in don’t hope i have to swap the entire Preamp/gate PCB to solve it.

    Lieven

    T112/IDR48/R72/IDR16/xDR16/IPad1
    Save a tree, eat a beaver

    #28944
    Profile photo of riggs1963
    riggs1963
    Participant

    Hi y’all,
    Just this week had 2 switches replaced/repaired…the repairer said it was grit/dirt/dust/whateveryouwanttocallit in the gap between the white cap and the black surround…contributing cause – button return spring reaches the point of not being strong enough to push the button back up…

    Hope everyone has great gigs this weekend…

    Cheers
    Dave

    T112|iDR48+ACEcard|Laptop|iDR16|iPad|iPS10

    #28945
    Profile photo of jimvoyager
    jimvoyager
    Participant

    quote:


    Originally posted by riggs1963

    Hi y’all,
    Just this week had 2 switches replaced/repaired…the repairer said it was grit/dirt/dust/whateveryouwanttocallit in the gap between the white cap and the black surround…contributing cause – button return spring reaches the point of not being strong enough to push the button back up…

    Hope everyone has great gigs this weekend…

    Cheers
    Dave

    Hi Dave, it’s good to hear it’s not so serious. Did your maintenance guy say an electronics cleaner type spray would help or is a replacement the only option.
    Some of my buttons can stick if I push them down off center so that go down crooked.
    I think they are abit too tightly engineered.
    Cheers jim

    T112|iDR48+ACEcard|Laptop|iDR16|iPad|iPS10


    R72 & IDR32

    #28947
    Profile photo of Mr-B
    Mr-B
    Participant

    Hi Jimvoyager, personally I would be wary of cleaner spray with plastic buttons most say they are safe on plastic and I have been caught before. The plastic turns white and powdery then just disintegrates.
    I have had a case where the board the switch was fitted to was not quite aligned correctly and this caused the switch cap to stick, opened it up slacked all the board fixing bolts and lined it all up worked a treat.

    Ian B.

    #28951
    Profile photo of jimvoyager
    jimvoyager
    Participant

    Thanks Ian. I will give the spray oprion a miss. I’m not really game to take the case apart. It looks too complex. I will live with it for now.
    Jim

    R72 & IDR32

    #28955
    Profile photo of Mr-B
    Mr-B
    Participant

    Jim give the guys at Technical a call they have really good how to guides on most things to do with the iLive, they have saved my BTM a couple of times. Just follow their instruction to the letter even if they seem a bit odd.

    Ian B.

    #28973
    Profile photo of Lieven-Dewispelaere
    Lieven-Dewispelaere
    Participant

    Hello,

    I finally opened up the t112 to examen the switches thorough and could solve the problem.
    the switches are smd soldered on the pcb. on that switch there is a black cap with the colored knob in (the actuator for the switch ). on the switches that get stuck the black cab is somewhat bend inwards so there is less clearance for the colored button. you can easily lift the cab off and replace it with a better one ( you can order them through A&H. order nrs are on the website)
    I sanded the button a little bit so there was enough clearance and the problem was solved
    The black cab is injected plastic an can still haven some tension left in the plastic that bend it over time.

    my advice to A&H : provide more clearance or les tension in the plastic but i suppose they already did take care off it because it is not a common problem and mine was one of the early ones produced

    Mine was out of warranty so i had to do it myself. if it is still under warranty send it back and let A&H take care of it.
    Now if i could get some spare cabs from A&H that would be lovely ’cause i think that there will be other ones that i have to replace in the future[;)]

    Regards

    Lieven

    T112/IDR48/R72/IDR16/xDR16/IPad1
    Save a tree, eat a beaver

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